Copper Peptides vs Retinol – Which Is Better for Skincare?

copper peptides vs retinol

In the skincare world, the competition for the title of ultimate skin-transforming ingredient is fierceeee, to say the least.

As a millennial getting on in years, I have been slathering on retinol every night on my face AND neck like there’s no tomorrow. Not taking any chances here. Just as I was getting comfortable in bed with my retinoids, my loyalty is tested with a newer, fresher, charming new ingredient on the block. 

It is none other than….Copper Peptides. An irresistibly sexy potent contender for younger-looking skin, challenging the longstanding reign of Retinol in my beauty line-up. 

Curious and tempted, I have broken down the mysterious origins of CP below in a bid to understand its allure better. If you wanna know whether it is good enough to persuade me to switch out my retinol serum, read on to find out!

How Copper Peptides Work

Copper peptides are tiny protein fragments consisting of the mineral copper bound to short chains of amino acids. First discovered in 1973 by biochemist Loren Pickart, copper peptides have been used for decades in advanced skin healing preparations.

These peptides play a vital role in the human body, acting as building blocks of proteins and showcasing unique benefits for the skin. Topical copper peptide serums like cult favourite The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + 1% Copper Peptide serum or the Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides can stimulate fibroblast activity in skin to drive collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan production. This in turn plumps up the appearance of wrinkles and supports a healthy skin barrier.

​When applied topically, copper triggers key biological processes in skin critical for retaining a youthful, resilient complexion over time even as we age. Skin utilizes copper peptides as messaging agents to stimulate fibroblast activity which in turns ramps up production of collagen, elastin and other structural proteins that maintain firm, line-free looking skin.

Benefits of Copper Peptides for Skin

  • Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Soothes inflammatory pathways behind delicate, reactive and rosacea-prone skin for superior tolerance of actives like retinol with less redness through suppression of inflammatory cytokines, making them effective in calming skin inflammation and reducing sensitivity. This makes copper peptides suitable for individuals with sensitive or compromised skin, as they contribute to a soothing and calming effect.
  • Antioxidant Protection Against Free Radicals: Copper peptides act as antioxidants, helping to neutralize free radicals in the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules generated by environmental stressors such as UV rays and pollution. Limits multiple sources of free radical damage driven by pollution, blue light, sun damage, and daily biological processes that degrade dermal collagen and age skin prematurely.
  • Collagen Boost: Stimulates collagen production, a crucial factor for maintaining skin elasticity and combating the visible signs of aging, contributing to smoother and more youthful-looking skin by diminishing the look of fine lines.
  • Elastin Production: Loss of elasticity is a key aging symptom. It is a crucial protein that contributes to skin flexibility and firmness. Copper peptides support the synthesis of elastin, leading to improved skin tightness and firmness. This effect is particularly beneficial in addressing concerns related to sagging or loss of skin tone.
  • Safe for Sensitive or Compromised Skin: Copper peptides are generally well-tolerated by various skin types, including sensitive or compromised skin. Their gentle nature and anti-inflammatory properties make them suitable for individuals with conditions like rosacea or post-procedural skin. However, as with any skincare ingredient, it’s advisable to conduct a patch test, especially for those with heightened sensitivity, to ensure compatibility.
  • Wound Healing: Stimulates fibroblasts and skin-building compounds to heal damaged scar tissue faster. Shown to effectively fade acne scars, age spots, surgical incisions, and photodamage. 

How Retinol Works

In contrast, how does retinol work its magic? Retinol first converts to retinoic acid on skin which binds receptors to accelerate cell turnover and reinforce structural proteins like collagen. But the downsides are irritation, photosensitivity and usage restrictions. Still, nothing surpasses prescription retinoids like tretinoin for fast anti-aging gains.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, has long been hailed as the holy grail in skincare. Renowned for its transformative effects on skin texture and the appearance of fine lines, Retinol has earned its place in countless skincare routines.

  • Skin Renewal: Retinol enhances skin cell turnover, promoting the shedding of dead skin cells and revealing a fresher, more youthful complexion.
  • Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Exhibiting anti-inflammatory effects, Retinol can be particularly beneficial for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.
  • Overall Skin Health: Beyond fine lines, Retinol contributes to overall skin health by addressing multiple signs of aging.
  • Prescription-Strength Options: Prescription-strength retinoids offer a more potent solution for individuals seeking accelerated results.

Copper Peptides vs Retinol – Can They Coexist? 

Can skincare science tell us if Copper Peptides and Retinol peacefully share space in your skincare routine? The answer lies in understanding their compatibility and the unique benefits they bring as surmised in the table below.

They can definitely be integrated into your routine for healthier skin. Rather than competing or canceling each other’s benefits out, combining copper peptides and retinol allows them to work in tandem to bring you compounded benefits:

  • Copper reinforces collagen and elastin to lift, firm and smooth skin texture while retinol accelerates surface cell turnover to reveal fresher skin. It’s a perfect pairing!
  • Copper peptides strengthen integrity of the dermis over time while retinol renews the epidermis by speeding up shedding of old cells. Dual pathway action.
  • Copper calms and conditions skin minimizing irritation often seen with retinol allowing for better tolerance and more consistent use at higher strengths needed for best results. 

Comparing Copper Peptides & Retinoids

​FeaturesCopper PeptidesRetinoids (e.g., Retinol)
Mechanism of ActionStimulates collagen production, aids in wound healing, and acts as an antioxidant.Increases cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and promotes skin renewal.
Collagen BoostingYesYes
Wound HealingYesNo
Anti-InflammatoryYesNo
Hydration PropertiesYesTypically, not a primary function.
Antioxidant PropertiesYesLimited, compared to copper peptides.
Main Use in SkincareAnti-aging, wound healing, hydration, and antioxidant protection.Anti-aging, skin renewal, and texture improvement.
Compatibility with Other IngredientsGenerally versatile but may not pair well with high concentrations of certain acids (e.g., vitamin C).May interact with certain ingredients, and caution is needed with acids and some antioxidants.
Side EffectsGenerally well-tolerated with mild side effects like temporary redness, itching, or tingling.Potential for irritation, dryness, and peeling, especially during the adjustment period.
Suitability for Sensitive SkinGenerally suitable, but patch testing is advisable.May cause sensitivity, especially in higher concentrations, and requires a gradual introduction.
Pregnancy/BreastfeedingGenerally considered safe, but consultation with a healthcare professional is recommended.Typically avoided, and pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are advised to consult a healthcare professional.
Application Time in Skincare RoutineCan be used in both morning and evening routines.Typically applied in the evening due to potential photosensitivity/ sun sensitivity.
Synergistic Use with Each OtherCan be used together for a synergistic anti-aging effect.Can be used together for enhanced benefits, but careful introduction is necessary.

However, you should not be using them at the same time. The best way to use them together is applying copper peptide serum each morning followed by daytime moisturizer to lock the peptides in followed by SPF. Then apply retinol usage at night before bed after cleansing so skin reaps remodeling benefits overnight without disruption to copper’s mechanisms. This splits the duo into separate routines for maximum anti-aging amplifying effects.

❌ Avoid layering a pure copper peptide serum with a pure retinol serum back-to-back at the same time. The highly acidic pH of standalone vitamin A formulations can destabilize copper.

✅ Optimal pairings include a retinol serum or moisturizer layered OVER a serum that contains both copper peptides and stabilizing antioxidants like vitamin E which preserves activity.

✅ Newer generation formulas combine copper peptides WITH encapsulated retinoid actives for simultaneous delivery with proven amplifying results. These ensure the copper remains shielded.

✅ Alternate separate copper peptide and retinol serums morning and evening if using standalone versions. But compatible combinations applied together do exist.

Before revealing my decision, I wanna list some of the best Copper Peptide products on the market now, in case you are looking to buy one. These options have highly bioavailable copper peptides for maximum skin penetration:

  • The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%: Affordably priced fan favorite with multiple peptides including anti-aging tripeptide combined with biopeptides and solubilized collagen for multi pathway action hydrating and plumping skin.
  • Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum: Proprietary Rapid Plumping Complex that floods skin with 3 super-hydrators for supreme moisture. The serum supplies more hydration than traditional hyaluronic acid serums that can’t maintain moisture. Includes a blend of hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, and sugarcane squalane to plump skin.
  • Dear Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Night SerumHighly concentrated with 10 core ingredients (Dual EGF, Peptides, Guaiazulene Adenosine) without the use of purified water to effectively combat various signs of aging and skin damage, improving overall skin texture and appearance.
  • Complete Skin Solutions Copper Peptide Face Serum Collagen: Its formula provides preventative benefits, producing a shield against free radicals and environmental damage. Packed with collagen, ceramides and hyaluronic acid for maximum hydration and glow.

To switch or not to switch – that is the question

Rather than competing directly, copper peptides and retinol beautifully complement each other! Consistent copper peptide use strengthens dermal connective tissues for lifted, taut skin texture. Meanwhile, retinol clears away old cells so fresh skin can surface. Together, they tackle aging changes even better long-term.

Soooooo the verdict is in, while I am impressed by the litany of benefits that CP promises, I am not that the stage where I need an extra boost YET because my retinol has been doing its job just fine. However, I am considering including it in my morning routine if dark spots or other skin aging indicators become a lot more visible. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Are there any side effects from using Copper Peptides? 

A: While copper peptides are generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience mild side effects. These can include temporary redness, itching, or a tingling sensation. If these symptoms persist or worsen, discontinuing use is recommended. As with any skincare ingredient, it’s crucial to follow product instructions and start with a patch test to gauge skin compatibility.

Q: What can’t be mixed or layered with Copper Peptides at the same time? 

A: Despite their versatility, there are certain skincare ingredients that may not pair well with copper peptides. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic or salicylic acid or vitamin C in high concentrations, might cause irritation when combined with copper peptides.

Peptides inactivate alongside ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C serums). It’s advisable to perform a patch test when introducing new products to identify any potential adverse reactions.

Q: Can pregnant women use peptide products?

A: Pregnant women should exercise caution when considering the use of skincare products containing copper peptides. While copper peptides are generally considered safe for topical use, it’s crucial for pregnant women to consult with their healthcare provider before incorporating any new skincare ingredients into their routine.

Copper is an essential trace element for the body, and copper peptides are naturally present in the skin. However, the safety of skincare products containing copper peptides during pregnancy has not been extensively studied, and individual responses to skincare ingredients can vary.

Q: Who can use them (and who shouldn’t)? 

A: Copper peptides are suitable for a broad range of skin types, including sensitive skin. However, individuals with known copper allergies should exercise caution or consult a dermatologist before incorporating copper peptides into their routine. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should also seek professional advice.

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Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional medical advice. Always consult with a board-certified dermatologist or healthcare practitioner or provider before making significant changes to your diet or supplement routine.

The Millennial Glow